CHOOSING A DIAMOND CUT
When it comes to selecting a diamond, one of the most crucial decisions to make is the choice of diamond cut. The cut of a diamond directly influences its brilliance, fire, and overall visual appeal. With numerous diamond cut styles available, each with its own unique characteristics, selecting the right cut requires careful consideration. We delve into the fascinating world of diamond cuts, exploring their impact on a diamond's beauty and helping you make an informed choice that will truly make your diamond shine.
The cut of a diamond refers to its proportions, symmetry, and overall craftsmanship. A well-cut diamond maximises the stone's ability to reflect and refract light, resulting in exceptional brilliance and sparkle. While there are various diamond cuts to choose from, some of the most popular and timeless options include the round brilliant cut, princess cut, emerald cut, and cushion cut. Each of these cuts has distinct features that set it apart and cater to different personal preferences and styles.
Round Brilliant Cut
The round brilliant is widely considered the most popular choice due to its exceptional brilliance and symmetrical 360-degree shape. Optically, the round cut surpasses other shapes in its ability to reflect light, resulting in maximum sparkle. It remains a timeless and enduring classic, making it an excellent option for those seeking a lasting symbol of elegance.
Facets: 57, triangular, and kite-shaped.
Cut: Brilliant.
Known for: Being the most popular and classic diamond shape.
Prioritise: Cut. Thanks to their much-desired brilliance, you can compromise on carat size, colour, or clarity before cut quality for maximum shine..
Oval Cut
The oval diamond's distinct shape is easily recognisable, as its name suggests. It combines the dazzling sparkle of the brilliant cut with an elongated form, making it ideal for enhancing the beauty of long and slender fingers or creating the illusion of length and grace. Traditionally, oval shaped diamonds fall within the range of 1.33 to 1.66, offering a balanced and visually appealing proportion.
Facets: 57, triangular, and kite-shaped.
Cut: Modified brilliant.
Known for: Comparable brilliance to a round brilliant, elongated form.
Prioritise: Carat. Oval’s maximise carat weight because of their large surface area.
Emerald Cut
The emerald cut stands out due to its distinct facet arrangement, featuring parallel facets that contribute to its unique optical characteristics. The table allows for an open and spacious appearance. The "step-like" cut of the facets enhances the diamond's clarity, showcasing its internal characteristics. While the emerald shape typically exhibits a rectangular outline, the length-to-width ratio can vary, providing flexibility in finding the desired proportions for this elegant cut.
Facets: 49, rectangular.
Cut: Step.
Known for: Being one of the oldest diamond shapes; “hall of mirrors” effect.
Prioritise: Clarity. The step-cut facets make natural inclusions more visible, so opt for VS1 or higher grades.
Pear Cut
The pear cut is a distinctive and captivating hybrid cut, resembling a teardrop and incorporating the finest elements of the marquise and round brilliant cuts. Its well-balanced proportions lend depth and radiance to the diamond's pointed end. The pear cut enjoys immense popularity in various jewellery pieces such as rings, earrings, and pendants.
Facets: 56, triangular, and kite-shaped.
Cut: Brilliant.
Known for: “Tears of joy” shape, it appears larger than other diamond shapes of the same carat weight.
Prioritise: Colour, clarity, or cut. Pear cut diamonds feature a large face and facets and may possess a slight "bow-tie" effect in the centre.
Radiant Cut
The radiant cut diamond seamlessly blends the elegant outline of an emerald shape with the dazzling brilliance of a round diamond. While its faceting pattern shares similarities with the round brilliant, the radiant cut features a square or rectangular outline with carefully cut corners. In a manner akin to the princess cut, radiant diamonds have a deeper profile, resulting in a higher concentration of colour compared to other diamond shapes.
Facets: 70.
Cut: Brilliant.
Known for: Unique cut and proportions, durable shape perfect for those with an active lifestyle.
Prioritise: Cut. This shape hides inclusions and beautifully reflects light, so it comes before the other 3Cs.
Cushion Cut
The cushion cut diamond has emerged as a popular choice in recent times, thanks to the growing interest in antique jewellery. This elegantly shaped diamond harmoniously blends the features of the round and oval cuts. Its rounded corners and larger facets contribute to the heightened brilliance that sets this diamond apart.
Facets: 77, triangular, and kite-shaped.
Cut: Modified brilliant.
Known for: Pillow-like appearance, “crushed ice” reflection.
Prioritise: Clarity. The large open table spotlights the diamond’s inclusions.
Marquise Cut
This exquisite diamond cut draws inspiration from the captivating smile of the Marquise de Pompadour, who so enchanted King Louis XIV that he desired a diamond that mirrored her smile. Hence, the marquise cut was commissioned. The marquise diamond boasts a slender and graceful shape, distinguished by two pointed ends. Similar to the oval cut, the marquise is known for accentuating long and slender fingers while offering a generous surface area. A standard marquise cut features 58 facets, adding to its brilliance and sparkle.
Facets: 56, triangular, and kite-shaped.
Cut: Brilliant.
Known for: Long, narrow “navette” shape, appearing larger than its carat weight.
Prioritise: Colour, clarity, or cut. Their large face and possible bow-tie effect mean that carat size should come last for maximum brilliance and beauty.
Asscher Cut
In 1902, the diamond cutter Joseph Asscher introduced a diamond shape that draws inspiration from the emerald cut while adding its own distinctive elements. Asscher diamonds stand out due to their beautifully angled and cropped corners, giving them a timeless and elegant appearance. Technically referred to as a 'square emerald cut,' the asscher cut diamond possesses a unique charm.
Facets: 74, triangular, and trapezoidal.
Cut: Step-cut.
Known for: Vintage look, square outline with distinct X-pattern, “hall of mirrors” effect.
Prioritise: Colour. The larger facets spotlight colour more than brilliant cuts.